Having your cake and eating your tart too
Brown food, it has to be acknowledged, is not the easiest thing to capture in enticing light. For someone who bakes, golden brown is probably one of the most attractive colours you could pull out of the oven. But for someone who also tries to take pictures of their baked goods, the same colour can be quite challenging to make look appetising.
I’ve noticed that I bake a lot of brown things, and that’s probably why I end up baking more than I blog. Let’s just say, for the majority of the time, I’d rather be eating than trying to take pictures of brown food 
This Engadiner Nusstorte, made a week ago, was so delicious that I struggled to hang on to that last piece in order to take a picture. Early on in the week, I sternly pointed to the remaining slice in it’s plastic container, declaring to B that it was Strictly Photo Pie, so Hands Off. Even so, I managed to secretly (I think) shave bits off the slice until it was nearly in danger of becoming non-existent. Not long after a picture was finally taken and the pie was relegated back to Edible status, the slice disappeared.
The reason why I was so adamant about taking a picture this time was because I wanted to highlight a cookbook I bought recently, that has rapidly become one of my current favourites : Warm Bread and Honey Cake by Gaitri Pagrach-Chandra.
I love a cookbook that respects baking audiences enough to use not only cup measures, but also weight measures in grams and ounces. It also scores highly with me if it happens to feature a collection of interesting pictures, and not just ones that have been styled to the hilt. For example, check out p301 to see how kataifi pastry is traditionally made.
It also extends beyond what you’d expect from a typical baking book. There are none of the usual suspects here – no chocolate brownies or endless variations on a single cupcake recipe. Instead, Warm Bread and Honey Cake plays host to a fantastic collection of unusual recipes such as a pink-tinted Caribbean coconut roll (Salara), Chilean layered ‘drunken’ apple cake (Kuchen Borracho), Chinese steamed red bean buns, a whole chapter on Turkish sweets and savouries, and many lovely looking Dutch recipes (the author also has a book on Dutch baking called Windmills in my Oven).
Not to mention the pineapple cake tart above either. Cake and tart in one hit? What’s not to like? It was delicious, but perhaps slightly overshadowed by the power of a pie that encases nuts and toffee in a single breath. The recipe for the pie is below.
Swiss Walnut and Toffee Pie :
(Engadiner Nusstorte or Bündner Nusstorte, from Warm Bread and Honey Cake by Gaitri Pagrach-Chandra)
Pastry :
300g plain flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
150g butter, chilled and cubed
100g icing sugar
1 egg, beaten
Filling :
250g caster sugar
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons honey, light corn syrup or liquid glucose
150ml double (heavy) cream, warmed
250g walnuts, coarsely chopped [Note : I used macadamia nuts]
Make the pastry first. In a large bowl, mix the flour and salt. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the icing sugar and rub in until well incorporated. Or simply put all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until it resembles fine breadcrumbs, then transfer to a bowl.
Reserving 2 tsp egg, add the rest to the bowl and use your fingertips to bring it together. Add a few drops of water if necessary. Cover with clingfilm and chill while you make the filling.
Have a pair of oven mitts standing by. Put the sugar, water and honey in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Stir gently to dissolve the sugar. Bring to the boil and let it continue to boil until it becomes a dark golden colour. Stir from time to time.
Put on the oven mitts and pour the warm cream into the saucepan in a steady stream, stirring continuously. It will hiss and bubble ferociously, but the mitts should protect your hands and arms. Keep on stirring the mixture on medium heat until it is creamy and slightly thickened. To test, pour 1 tsp onto a cold saucer and tilt it after a few seconds. The mixture should spread slowly and not disintegrate into rivulets. Remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the walnuts, coating them well. Set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 180′C. Grease a 24cm springform tin.
To assemble the pie, the pastry should be chilled but still malleable, or it will break when you roll it. Divide the pastry into two portions, one slightly larger than the other. Roll out the larger portion between two sheets of clingfilm to a 30cm circle and use it to line the tin. (Use the bottom sheet of clingfilm to help move it, removing the sheet once the pastry is in place). Press the edges of the pastry against the side of the tin.
Scrape the filling onto the pastry. Level the top as well as you can, but don’t apply too much pressure, or you may tear the pastry and the filling will leak out. Fold the excess pastry inwards over the filling.
Roll the second piece of pastry to a neat 22cm circle. Trim if necessary. Moisten the edges of the pastry base in the tin with a little water and position the second pastry circle on top of this. Use a fork to crimp and seal the edges. Brush with the reserved egg and prick with a fork in several places. If you like, you can score a plaid pattern onto the surface with the fork.
Bake for 35-40 mins, or until golden brown. Leave to cool until lukewarm in the tin, then loosen the sides, release the clip and carefully transfer the pie to a wire rack to cool completely.
Tags: cake, caramel, cinnamon, macadamia nut, pineapple, tart
Anita said,
February 1, 2010 @ 4:34 pm
I think it all looks gorgeous. You’ve made brown food very photogenic
I have so much trouble with stews… nothing makes meat and stew or bolognese look good
chocolatesuze said,
February 1, 2010 @ 4:42 pm
cake AND tart in one is so much win!
Manggy said,
February 1, 2010 @ 4:42 pm
What are you talking about?! That is the most beautiful thing ever. In fact, it’s the cover of WBaHC, which is why I bought it!!!
(Was planning on making the ananastart too!)
I like to think my review is why you decided to get the book, heh heh
Y said,
February 1, 2010 @ 4:49 pm
Anita : I hear ya. Have attempted taking a picture of bolognese before. Not pretty.
chocolatesuze : I know! Wish there was more tart to cake though. I’m a bit of a pastry freak like that.
Mark, actually, the cover really put me off buying the book but I was attracted by the variety of recipes, bought it, and wasn’t disappointed at all! I must confess that I’d totally forgotten about your review, although I think subconsciously you did influence my decision to get the book
sugar plum fairy said,
February 1, 2010 @ 5:26 pm
Delicoius…would love to try this one sooonnnnn….am off looking for the pineapple tart recipe…is it somewhere here or may i pleaseeeeeeeeeeee have the link…..
Gummi Baby said,
February 1, 2010 @ 7:32 pm
I agree that your food photography is unmatched! Your blog on the Daring Bakers Nanaimo Bar challenge introduced an entire other world to me that I didn’t know of. If only I had the time for such pursuits! Please keep up the great work!
Big Boys Oven said,
February 1, 2010 @ 7:47 pm
wow TWO in One, just awesome ! great ideal too. just fantastic
!
the caked crusader said,
February 1, 2010 @ 8:00 pm
I don’t have a problem with the colour when it looks so tasty. That pineapple tart is calling to me!
Rosa said,
February 1, 2010 @ 8:20 pm
Wow, I’m so happy to see that you made Nüsstorte from my country! That is a speciality I LOVE! That Pineapple Tart looks very fine too!
Cheers,
Rosa
shaz said,
February 1, 2010 @ 8:31 pm
Oh my, that walnut and toffee pie looks absolutely gorgeous – and you got two tones of brown, bravo
I’m sold on the book too, definitely going to look for it ASAP. We love turkish pastries so it would be worth it for that chapter alone.
FFichiban said,
February 1, 2010 @ 9:49 pm
Hee hee brown foods are tasttyy!! esp if they are like your cake AND tart!!
penny aka jeroxie said,
February 1, 2010 @ 10:07 pm
Looks good enough for 2 slices at one good. Brown or no brown. Flavour is important too
mademoiselle délicieuse said,
February 1, 2010 @ 10:24 pm
A cake-tart has a certain appeal to it, much like how I like frangipane tarts…crumbly pastry + soft, spongy innards = yum!
linda said,
February 1, 2010 @ 11:22 pm
your photography is quite lovely & always so enjoyable to see…
post your “browns”…we would look forward to anything you bake & photograph!
this is a wonderful recipe & i am going to purchase the book you recommend!
Christy said,
February 2, 2010 @ 12:35 am
I agree- brown’s bitch to capture on camera, especially on a bad photo day. But I sure enjoy eating them, so no loss there. That’s probably why I don’t blog often too—photos just don’t do brown cake-tarts any justice!
Sarka said,
February 2, 2010 @ 1:40 am
I think you managed to make “brown” highly appetising!
I completely understand your worries. I sometimes end up just eating what I baked because it tastes better than it looks! 
cakebrain said,
February 2, 2010 @ 3:44 am
I concur…brown is difficult to photograph. I especially love chocolate so that makes it even more difficult. I think you did a good job of the tart and it looks enticing! I too don’t photograph everything I bake. A pity, but that’s life.
asha@FSK said,
February 2, 2010 @ 4:31 am
Gah! agree brown without relief is the dullest color to photograph! :O
Btw, saw that book in the store recently when I was hunting for bread books.. loved the title but didn’t get peruse.. will check it out next time!
Steph said,
February 2, 2010 @ 8:48 am
Pineapple cake tart? All my Christmases have come at once! Totally with you, eating brown baked things is ten thousand times more fun than photographing them, but you seem to manage just fine
Lorraine @NotQuiteNigella said,
February 2, 2010 @ 9:09 am
That is like a two for one dessert! Got to love that!
wizzythestick said,
February 2, 2010 @ 9:12 am
A wonderful endorsement of that book. I know the coconut roll very well – It’s delicious. Gosh tempting me to whip up a batch now! As usual your photo is fantastic.
shez said,
February 2, 2010 @ 9:39 am
You’re right of course – brown out of the oven does taste better than vivid reds and mottled greens. And, thinking of it, most warmingly homey comfortable things don’t photograph particularly well (grey trackies, mugs of milky tea, granny slippers) but their enjoyment makes up for the not-quite-as-aesthetic appeal
grace said,
February 2, 2010 @ 10:08 am
i highly doubt that you could ever make anything look unappetizing. thanks for the thorough review of what sounds like a really useful book. more importantly, thanks for a stellar recipe.
felicia said,
February 2, 2010 @ 10:41 am
the pineapple tart looks gorgeous!
i didnt know that spongecake lookalike was a pineapple tart.
looking fab.
love the pie too!
faithy said,
February 2, 2010 @ 3:34 pm
Looks yummy! Perhaps i should bake the cake/tart for CNY instead of our usual pineapple tarts!
But means i have to buy that book before i can bake it..lol! Another excuse for me to buy a cookbook!
Juliana said,
February 2, 2010 @ 5:09 pm
In spite of the “brown”…which I do not mind, the cake looks yummie, full of flavor
walnut and honey…cannot go wrong!
Lisa said,
February 3, 2010 @ 1:38 am
The pineapple tart/cake above looks amazing (I just had an argument with my BF about a dessert he called a tart/cake, demanding it was either one or the other..lol I stand corrected!), and the recipe for Swiss walnut and toffee pie sounds decadent. I commend you for being to photograph brown food and make it look so lovely. I can’t even photograph colorful food lol Beautifully done as always!
Fuji Mama said,
February 3, 2010 @ 1:49 am
Ok, you just made the whole issue of photographing brown food look easy! Your pictures are beautiful! As for this book, it sounds fascinating. I get sick of “the usual suspects” in these types of books, and so I love the thought of a book like this (and especially the thought of those Turkish sweets). Thanks for the heads up, I’m off to look it up on Amazon.com!
Sophie said,
February 3, 2010 @ 2:24 am
I love carbs…and usually they’re brown. And usually I just cheat/take the easy way out and cover them in powdered sugar (lol). But I can say that I love all of your brown food!
About that cookbook, you know, I am such a weenie when it comes to baking. I’ve heard that using weight measurements as opposed to cups yields a much more tasty treat, but I’ve yet to buy a scale! And it’s just a little scary for me… which is why my desserts aren’t nearly as gorgeous as yours
.
Dana said,
February 3, 2010 @ 5:51 am
Engadiner Nusstorte, nice! Never heard of it before or tried it but I can tell that I’d love it. I actually like simple, monochromatic dessert pictures. They seem so real and true – especially when someone like you photographs them.
Dana said,
February 3, 2010 @ 5:52 am
I’ve never hear of an Engandier Nusstorte but I think i’d like it – gorgeous!
To be honest, I love monochromatic photos of baking especially when they are photographed as well as you yours are.
Mowie said,
February 3, 2010 @ 6:28 am
Gorgeous and totally delectable! I too am constantly baking brown things, but that’s just part of baking, isn’t it? Most of it is brown! Love your photos, lighting and reflections (what do you use for the reflection by the way? Glass? Tile? Plastic?)
steph (whisk/spoon) said,
February 3, 2010 @ 6:41 am
i think you’ve managed to get brown food to look pretty photogenic!! i was just looking at this book at a shop the other day. after reading this post, i may have to see if it’s still there!
my spatula said,
February 3, 2010 @ 8:24 am
nothing like a good cookbook to soothe the soul. but cake AND tart together. sign me up please.
Bake in Paris said,
February 3, 2010 @ 10:44 pm
Your photos of brown food are always nice…. don’t think you have any problem photographing them….. Just like in this post….
Sawadee from Bangkok,
Kris
Megan @ FeastingonArt said,
February 3, 2010 @ 11:12 pm
I agree with you about the brown food. It is not a pretty subject. I have had some pineapple sitting around for quite some time – i now have the urge to bake cake!
foodwink said,
February 3, 2010 @ 11:56 pm
I just love your photos – clean and inviting. Brown food or otherwise
Sweets at Vicky's said,
February 4, 2010 @ 2:20 am
The ananas tart is such a different take on the chinese pineapple tarts we have during our lunar new year. Yum! And you know, it’s been proven that brown food is the MOST appealing coloured food, with blue being the worst.
Jamie said,
February 4, 2010 @ 3:00 am
Whatever it takes you have because that is one luscious, mouthwatering tart/cake! Delicious!
And this reminds me of what a friend told me once : a North African (Sepharade) Jew who married an Ashkenaze (Russian Jewish descent – like me) and said she hated cooking food from our culture because it was all brown, just a table piled high with brown food. Well look at your photo! Brown can be soooo tasty delicious!
Arwen from Hoglet K said,
February 4, 2010 @ 12:57 pm
Macadamias and toffee sound like a lovely combination. No wonder you had trouble keeping a slice! It’s nice to find a book with all three kinds of measure too.
Natalie said,
February 4, 2010 @ 3:12 pm
Oh.. the pineapple cake tart sounds divine.. and it turned out just gorgeous..
Cakelaw said,
February 4, 2010 @ 3:19 pm
This tart looks delightful – I don’t mind that it’s brown at all. The book also sounds fascinating – I like unusual recipes or those with a twist.
barbara said,
February 4, 2010 @ 5:08 pm
That pineapple cake looks interesting and sounds wonderful.
Jessica said,
February 5, 2010 @ 9:49 am
Mmm cookbooks that use metric? Sign me up! And I was just wanting a pineapple tart as I clicked on your blog. That cookbook sounds fantastic. Other culture’s sweet don’t get enough playtime!
Trissa said,
February 6, 2010 @ 6:13 pm
Yup, agree – can never take a great picture of brown food, and things in glasses!
I so desperately want the cookbook you mentioned now. Even the title alone – warm bread and honey cake just makes me feel happy! 
Baking Soda said,
February 6, 2010 @ 11:12 pm
Ananastaart? You can imagine that that immediately caught my eye… So funny to discover a Dutch based writer through you. Maybe I need to try and find the book. I definitely think so.
Cannelle Et Vanille said,
February 7, 2010 @ 7:50 am
i just got this book per your recommendation and the pineapple tart also caught my eye. must try it. and yes, not easy to photograph brown food and you did it beautifully!
Arfi said,
February 7, 2010 @ 10:26 am
sounds like bakewell tart, reading the recipe. i think you did it alright with the photograph
Hannah said,
February 7, 2010 @ 10:58 am
I don’t know, I think your brown food is plenty gorgeous… Seriously, this little number above is a total knock out! It sounds scrumptious too… I mean, how could you go wrong with a toffee pie?
Jen (jenius.com.au) said,
February 7, 2010 @ 10:57 pm
I totally agree with the others, you make brown food look so stunning and oh so very scrumptious! Cake tart… mmmm
shirley@kokken69 said,
February 8, 2010 @ 9:11 am
This is interesting… I have never thought about the challenge behind photographing brown food. I shall pay attention when I do take pictures of brown food next time. However, you have nothing to worry about – your photos are enticing! Great pie, looks absolutely yummy to me…
Katherine said,
February 8, 2010 @ 9:24 pm
Walnut and Toffee Pie. YUMMMM. Y I think yours photos are amazing. You are extremely talented. You need to teach me a few tricks because my pictures suck. ehehe
Sweets at Vicky's said,
February 9, 2010 @ 12:27 am
Hellloo! Just wanted to say that I adore your work and would love to give u an award! Pop by the blog to recieve it ok?
Hélène said,
February 9, 2010 @ 1:40 pm
I always come here and enjoy your photographie
Su-yin said,
February 9, 2010 @ 7:54 pm
Cake and tart in one, how interesting! I know what you mean about brown food, and completely agree that it’s much more fun eating than photographing them!
Pei-Lin said,
February 10, 2010 @ 2:03 am
Whoa! A 2-in-1 combo! I’d never have thought of combining cake & tart together! Lovely idea!
Hmm … Gotta agree with you that I actually get pretty worn out after baking, especially during festive season like now … Sometimes, I don’t feel like photographing them. Instead, I just stuff the food into my mouth and tummy. Bah … The space at home is too small and without much natural light coming in … That’s why my photos suck. =(
Caitlin said,
February 10, 2010 @ 12:45 pm
I’m a lover of brown foods as well, those and soups and stews and things that are eminently un-photographable. I’m sorta okay with that though, because they always taste good
Zita said,
February 11, 2010 @ 1:09 am
Mmm.. this I have to try… tart and cake altogether, I love food… full stop. No matter what the colour is, but got admit taking pic of brown food is challenging, but not so much for you, I guess… bcs on the point I don’t know what you’re taking about
Hilda said,
February 11, 2010 @ 1:39 pm
I’m a bit late to the party but having some examples of food that is both brown and stew-ish on my blog and which I know does not look very appetizing, but which I know to be delicious, makes me totally empathize. Actually it’s quite a challenge because if I ever want to include any Persian stews on the blog I’m going to have to find a way to make them look appetizing to everyone else because they’re mostly either brown or green, ugh. That cake looks fantastic and I have to say that a book that includes the words warm, bread, honey and cake in the title should surely find its way onto my bookshelf soon. Nice pictures of brown food Y.
cathy x. said,
February 11, 2010 @ 7:20 pm
damnit.. you’ve convinced me to buy yet another cookbook! i have no more space for shelving! NOooo!
erin said,
February 13, 2010 @ 8:44 am
Just added the cookbook to my Amazon wish list! Thanks!
Lisa said,
February 13, 2010 @ 12:25 pm
Looks delicious to me! I hear you on the brown food thing – Lentil soup …. my photographic nemesis so tasty, yet so hard to make look better than a pile of mud. Your photos however, look great
Wanara said,
February 14, 2010 @ 9:41 am
This cake is very delicious..
pity said,
February 16, 2010 @ 9:39 am
this is impressive and delicious, cant wait to try it, well done, cheers from london
Darina said,
February 17, 2010 @ 12:24 pm
I think this looks great, brown or not brown. I’d love to be able to sink my teeth into it. Your pictures are always amazing. Nothing to worry about.
Carolyn Jung said,
February 17, 2010 @ 1:08 pm
Well, I for one will go out on a limb and say this is the prettiest brown food I’ve seen. Here’s to more brown food if it’s as sweet and delightful as this one.
Erika from The Pastry Chef At Home said,
February 17, 2010 @ 6:05 pm
Can we have the recipe for the ananas tart too? Pretty please?
I too would rather be baking (and eating) than photographing brown food…or any food for that matter. Taking pictures of the food is the least fun part of blogging for me. I’m in love strictly with the baking and writing parts.
I am intrigued by the book, mainly because of the chapter on Turkish sweets and savouries. After visiting Istanbul 2 summers ago I have been asking myself what the hell i’m doing living in nyc instead of there….
diva said,
February 19, 2010 @ 3:14 am
This is crazy gorgeous! I wanna eat it now…totally need some of that to chase away these horrible cold wintry blues.
Julia @ Mélanger said,
February 19, 2010 @ 9:37 am
What a big call that you struggled to keep this tarty cake around long enough to photograph. You have me intrigued. Must say though, I don’t think your photographs are unattractive, even the brown subjects. The simplicity of your set up and your beautiful shadows and lighting always make for a mouth-watering shot!
Aparna said,
February 19, 2010 @ 5:09 pm
My daughter hasn’t seen this one, or she’d be telling me again, “why can’t you bake like she does?”!!!
I think I must bake this to satisfy her.
Yes, I also cook a lot of brown (sometimes not very good looking) food which always tatses a lot better than it looks. Think a lot of Asians do.
Simon said,
February 20, 2010 @ 3:42 am
Taking photos of light browns I’m alright with. It’s the medium to dark browns that are my photographic bugbears.
Love how the cookbook has weight measures. Find it difficult to get consistent results with baked goods without weight measures.
marcellina said,
February 23, 2010 @ 3:38 pm
I think your photography is brilliant. I have a beautiful recipe for a chicken dish but it doesn’t photograph well. I’m still really just learning and I can learn a lot from you. The walnut and toffee pie sounds delish! I must try it. I will be on the lookout for the cook book as well. Thanks!