Gâteau Breton
Very recently, one of the members of our work team resigned from his position. He had not been working there very long but even so, I felt overcome with sadness when I heard the news. The kitchen environment is very much all about operating as a team – we celebrate successes and bear the burden of failures as a team. If a few cogs from the machine fail or go missing, then the system starts to break down quickly.
The way in which any kitchen operates, fascinates me even to this day. We get a lot of visitors asking to take a look inside this current kitchen and their interest is not surprising at all. As my work station is located in a corner of the room, I am sometimes able to stand back and observe the quiet ‘controlled chaos’ as it unfolds. Don’t laugh, but it occurs to me that this frenzied ‘show’ is almost a miniaturised version of Vegas. You travel down a long road to reach your destination, to be dazzled by the glitzy bright lights, the smells, the rush of heat, and noise filling your ears. Behind these lights, hide tight, sweaty, gritty faces hunched over benches. They work : to live, for love, with passion, for money, and the occasional bit of glory.
Even when the odds are stacked against them. Sixty covers in one hour? Never say die. They wear the sweat as a badge of pride; pores shut tight with salt, iced cordial and coffee.
Even when Elvis struts in, demanding something off-the-menu. They dance around, scrambling to pull something together. Because it’s Elvis. Because the show must go on.
So now a member of this cast has left. We put on our costumes, we joke, get angry, rush around, grumble at miscues. Then the curtain draws back and the show goes on.
(Amidst this crazy circus, we have managed to find a bit of a holiday. Look, I also made cake! Or rather, it’s a cross between tender cake and buttery shortbread. It’s actually quite wonderful on it’s own, but after being inspired by a recipe from The Big Sur Bakery cookbook, I decided to pair it with lemon verbena cream and some sweet blueberries. If you wish to serve it in a similar way, first warm some thickened cream with fresh lemon verbena leaves and a dash of honey, then strain and chill well before whipping it until it forms soft peaks. Top slices of cake with pillow-like dollops of cream and a generous handful of berries tossed through some icing sugar.)
Gâteau Breton :
(serves 10 – 12; I simplified the instructions a little, but essentially, the recipe is from Rose’s Heavenly Cakes by Rose Levy Beranbaum)
42g (1/2 cup) blanched sliced almonds
150g (3/4 cup) superfine sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
255g (2 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
74g (from about 4 large eggs) egg yolks, at room temperature
15g (1 tablespoon) kirsch, dark rum, or water
1 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
250g (2 cups plus 3 tablespoons) plain flour
1 whole egg, lightly beaten
Preheat the oven to 160′C.
Toast the almonds until golden, cool completely then place in a food processor and process the almonds with about 3/4 cup of the sugar until fairly fine but not powder fine.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted, mix the remaining sugar, salt and the butter on medium speed for about 1 minute until smooth and creamy. Beat in the yolks, 1 at a time, beating for about 20 seconds between each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Add the almond mixture, kirsch, and vanilla and mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Raise the speed to medium and beat for about 20 seconds, then add the flour in four parts, beating on the lowest speed for about 15 seconds and turning off the mixer between additions. Use a spatula to finish mixing in any flour that remains unincorporated.
Scrape the batter into a prepared fluted tart pan with removable bottom (9 1/2 inch by 1 3/8 inch; greased and lightly floured). With the beaten egg, brush the top of the cake well, using a little less than 1 tablespoon. Use the tines of a fork to make a crosshatch pattern on top. The fork lines help prevent the batter from puffing up unevenly.
Bake the cake for 35 – 45 minutes, or until a deep golden brown and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the centre.
Let the cake cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before attempting to unmold it and place it on a serving plate.
Tags: blueberries, cake, cream, lemon verbena, Rose Levy Berenbaum, teacake
Rosa said,
December 30, 2009 @ 9:33 am
Delightful!
Best wishes for 2010!
Cheers,
Rosa
dawn said,
December 30, 2009 @ 9:54 am
as much as I love to have unique and kick up recipes, this is always one of my all time favorites. very nice.
Erika from The Pastry Chef At Home said,
December 30, 2009 @ 10:28 am
Loved your description of the “frenzied show” – so accurate. The lemon verbena cream is the perfect topping for this cake. Wishing you a fantastic 2010!
Krista said,
December 30, 2009 @ 10:37 am
I love the lemon verbena cream so much!
Can’t wait to try it!
shaz said,
December 30, 2009 @ 10:37 am
Another interesting insight into your world Y. I am in awe of anyone who works in a commercial kitchen, the pressure sounds quite incredible! Speaking of incredible..that cake and lemon verbena cream…mmmm! Raising a glass to you for 2010
Julia @ Mélanger said,
December 30, 2009 @ 10:45 am
LOL. What a story. And the thing is, it’s funny, probably because it’s true??! So your work mate has decided to cash out, and leave the bright lights and drama behind. Or perhaps buy some chips at another table, at another casino, somewhere soon?
A cake I have yet to make. A friend at work is from Brittany and talks of this fondly. I have never seen verbena leaves. Where did you get yours from?
Lauren said,
December 30, 2009 @ 11:13 am
Wonderful! I would love to see this show, as I’m sure it is a unsuspecting masterpiece. This gateau looks delightful and your description of it is simply dreamy =D.
hope chest said,
December 30, 2009 @ 12:33 pm
The topping on the cake is the winner. I can’t wait to try it. It really looks so delicious!
Lorraine @NotQuiteNigella said,
December 30, 2009 @ 12:43 pm
Hehe I’d love to watch the goings on in the kitchen during service! I saw it at Bather’s and it was intense!
Lovely Gateau Breton. It’s my butter and biscuit loving mum’s favourite cake as it’s more like a biscuit hehe!
Caitlin said,
December 30, 2009 @ 12:44 pm
This gateau looks wonderfully light compared to all of the desserts I’ve been having lately. I must admit, it’ll be nice to have the time to bake a cake as well. Ah well, that’s the holidays, isn’t it?
tracieMoo said,
December 30, 2009 @ 12:54 pm
what a great dessert! got to have some of these..
Esz said,
December 30, 2009 @ 1:31 pm
Nice story! I know that controlled chaos – I worked in a kitchen for a while too, but nowhere near as glamourous as yours (can you say corporate catering?)…its kind of exhilirating and whole different world.
Hope you’re having a great holiday period
Steph said,
December 30, 2009 @ 2:25 pm
I love how you topped it off, it looks like the perfect thing to offset the richness of that buttery cake. So perfect for a dinner party
cakebrain said,
December 30, 2009 @ 6:21 pm
This reminds me of my stay in Normandy when I had a slice of this wonderful cake. It looks so butterylicious!
Trissa said,
December 30, 2009 @ 8:11 pm
I like how you compared work to Las Vegas…that’s a very interesting way to look at things – and I couldnt agree more (now that I think about it!). Sorry to hear about your work mate… not only is it sad when someone leaves, it also puts a strain when there are less resources to do the same amount of work! Anyway, your Gateau looks so delicious – loving the idea of the lemon verbena cream.
Jamie said,
December 30, 2009 @ 8:26 pm
When I worked many years ago as a culinary guide (gastronomic tours in Paris’ top restaurants) I would love to visit the kitchen and talk to everyone who worked there. Fascinating. And I can see that the team has to work together so tightly to make it work. And the passion was palpable.
This gateau breton is beautiful (I live in Brittany). It looks so perfect!
Happy happy holidays to you and yours!
Laura said,
December 30, 2009 @ 8:45 pm
I love lemon verbena and it goes so well with most fruit. Thanks for sharing the recipe, something new to try!
I know what you mean about someone leaving the team and you having to deal without that person. I will be starting a new job soon, can’t wait to get my hands dirty again and meet the people of the new team (won’t open until March).
Simon said,
December 30, 2009 @ 10:12 pm
Sorry to hear that one of your team had moved on. Though, you get to have the excitement of meeting/getting to know/get frustrated at their replacement.
Nice looking short bread cake tart thingy! Better served chilled/warmed/doesn’t matter?
Anh said,
December 30, 2009 @ 10:42 pm
I always love your story about the kitchen world. It feels so different to my environment at work. We are crazy about different matters
.
The cake sounds wonderful. I have had the book for so long and now it’s packed in one of the boxes. Hopefully I can enjoy one of the recipes from there soon.!
pastrystudio said,
December 31, 2009 @ 12:54 am
Oooooo, this looks incredibly sublime, as does everything you do.
Oh, how I recognize your description of a professional kitchen. Every single person is so important. Here’s to hoping you find a good replacement soon!
Happy New Year!
diva said,
December 31, 2009 @ 2:51 am
i love the way you described how your kitchen works. i’m always fascinated with how it works – the bustle, the action, the fuss, the passion. I love it! Somehow always wished to be a part of it but totally unsure how I can perform under such stresses. this is beautiful!
blueberry anything is a winner with me. Happy New Year! x
Pei-Lin said,
December 31, 2009 @ 5:04 am
GOSH! This looks so damn good!! Wish I could have some …
HAPPY NEW YEAR to you!
Wizzythestick said,
December 31, 2009 @ 8:40 am
Amazing looking cake or is it a pie? Beautiful.
chocolatesuze said,
December 31, 2009 @ 9:41 am
heh good ol elvis. happy new year and all the best for 2010 dude!
The Purple Foodie said,
December 31, 2009 @ 10:15 am
Encouraging to know that the kitchens have so much camaraderie! I’m going to start working at a parisserie next week (woohooo!) and I can’t wait!
Christie @ Fig&Cherry said,
December 31, 2009 @ 5:24 pm
Happy New Year! Hopefully catch up in early 2010.
grace said,
December 31, 2009 @ 10:26 pm
pillow-like dollops of cream, eh? fortunately for me, i like big, nay, MASSIVE pillows.
lovely cake, and kind post–i hope your ex-coworker knows he’ll be missed!
billy@atablefortwo said,
December 31, 2009 @ 11:32 pm
I am glad to be able to share a piece of my gastronomic journey with you this year. Best wishes for 2010 and hopefully it will be bigger and better for you…. with a little bit of icing perhaps.
Ana Powell said,
January 1, 2010 @ 12:19 am
Lovely and delicious.
Wishing you a lovely New Year x
Hélène said,
January 1, 2010 @ 5:27 am
Delicious. Happy New Year!
Ellie said,
January 1, 2010 @ 11:29 am
Love how you made the humble gateau breton looks so delightful! Wishing you a very happy new year
veron said,
January 1, 2010 @ 1:07 pm
The show does go on. Gorgeous gateau breton. Happy New Year, Y!
deeba said,
January 1, 2010 @ 3:04 pm
Simple & sensational… gorgeous flavours Y!!
Hope you have a fantastic 2010. Sorry about the new guy leaving. Always so difficult to take!
Jacque said,
January 1, 2010 @ 3:40 pm
Oooh, that looks lovely and delish! The blueberries sound like a perfect touch.
Piggy said,
January 2, 2010 @ 3:24 am
I wish I could have a bite at your gâteau breton, it looks so yummy!
Happy new year, Y!
Big Boys Oven said,
January 2, 2010 @ 3:39 am
A simple and yet elegant to begin the new year! You just fab!
Su-yin said,
January 2, 2010 @ 6:27 am
I love your description of the gateau – a cross between cake and shortbread… could it get any better than that?
Happy new year! x
Sugar Chef said,
January 2, 2010 @ 7:02 am
Great post Y. Happy New Year and the best of everything in 2010.
Arwen from Hoglet K said,
January 2, 2010 @ 2:41 pm
It’s interesting to hear how you infuse your cream, and lemon verbena sounds great with shortbread. Happy new year!
Helen (grabyourfork) said,
January 4, 2010 @ 1:42 am
What a beautifully eloquent way of describing the organised chaos of kitchen service. I’ve always been fascinated by working kitchens – all that intensity behind those swinging doors whilst diners laugh gaily and obliviously on the other side.
Happy New Year to you. Glad you found some time for a much-deserved break
Sophie said,
January 4, 2010 @ 7:44 am
A georgous dessert, Y to lead us into the New Year!!
penny aka jeroxie said,
January 4, 2010 @ 2:19 pm
I never had this before….. oh dear!
I will like to be in a working kitchen one day. Just for the experience.
Happy new year lovely!
the caked crusader said,
January 4, 2010 @ 7:46 pm
I do love a gateau breton and yours looks lovely.
Happy new year
my spatula said,
January 5, 2010 @ 1:11 pm
can you please make this for me, again? pretty please?!
so beautiful. happy new year, y!
Cakelaw said,
January 5, 2010 @ 2:25 pm
Sad to hear about a member of the team leaving – it happens so often (and I am often enough the member flying the coop). This cake looks devine – perfect tea time treat.
Hannah said,
January 7, 2010 @ 9:55 pm
I loved watching this post unfold over the well-oiled kitchen and delightful gateau; even the sad act of a team member leaving was painted beautifully. Thank you for sharing.
All the best for a fabulous 2010,
H
bake in paris said,
January 7, 2010 @ 10:41 pm
Gateau breton looks fantastic. Simple and elegant!
Sorry to hear about your team member, hope there will be a capable replacement soon! Good luck!
Sawadee from Bangkok,
Kris
Sweets at Vicky's said,
January 8, 2010 @ 12:45 am
I’ve heard so many gorgeous things about Rose’s new book and I can’t wait to try this out!
Deliciousness! Thanks for sharing! Happpy 2010!
steph (whisk/spoon) said,
January 8, 2010 @ 8:29 am
that is a simply lovely slice of cake! it’s amazing what fast friendships you can form in the intense environment of the kitchen, isn’t it?
Marc @ NoRecipes said,
January 8, 2010 @ 2:06 pm
Mmmmm yummy! Sorry to hear about the guy leaving but I’m sure you’ll find someone even better soon. I’ve always been a bit curious what goes on behind the scenes and I always love reading these little tidbits.
Manggy said,
January 8, 2010 @ 4:55 pm
We could trade war stories sometime but I’m not sure how deep the parallelisms go between the emergency room and the restaurant
But I am fascinated by your life, too. And I see we have the same books! Not surprising, heh heh 
Jenny said,
January 10, 2010 @ 1:02 pm
Happy new year – and lovely gateau recipe. I really like how you’ve combined this with lemon verbena cream. Absolutely beautiful.
Dina said,
January 14, 2010 @ 8:23 am
a cross between buttery cake and shortbread — 2 of my favorite things! This dessert must be heavenly!
lauresophie said,
January 16, 2010 @ 5:37 am
souvenir souvenir! I used to go sailing in britania, and of course eating crepes and gateau breton….so good! you should try with salted butter if I am allow to say/propose. The taste is amazing!
Marysol said,
January 21, 2010 @ 4:26 am
Y, what a delicious way to ring in the new year.
And it’s good to know that eternal life hasn’t affected Elvis’ diet.
Best wishes for a happy new year!
kthln said,
January 24, 2010 @ 9:09 am
Makes me long to work in a kitchen again!